Karaoke

It’s no secret that the Vietnamese love their karaoke, something which I struggle to comprehend, even now. I find myself cringing at the sound of my own voice in the shower, let alone blasting it over a microphone for the whole of HCMC to hear. However, I do have to say that I thoroughly admire the Vietnamese’s ability to let go of all their inhibitions, even when it sounds just this bad …

For now, we’ll ignore the fact that this noise level was totally inappropriate for 1am on a Thursday night and instead just marvel at the gloriousness that is that woman’s voice. Vietnam’s Got Talent anyone?

1940s Saigon

An old colleague sent me this video of Saigon in 1945. I especially love the old-style cyclos and the prominence of the Áo Dài! Incredible how things have changed since then.

Street Food

During the planning stages of my expatriation to Vietnam, whenever anyone spoke of the local street food, all that came to my mind was phở. And that was only because I once went to a Vietnamese restaurant on a visit down to London. People used to give me varying accounts of Vietnamese street food; some strictly warned me off the stuff, others said it was the best food they’d ever experienced. I honestly had no idea what to expect.

I have since learned that Vietnamese street food is amongst some of the tastiest (and cheapest!) food that I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. Granted, this is after numerous bouts of food poisoning and 2 trips to the local hospital, but what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right? Vietnamese street food has to be approached with caution, but the moment you find that one vendor who practises proper food hygiene (ie: who doesn’t sharpen their knives on the curb), you just know you’re onto a winner.

Here are some of the local delights that have been tantalising my taste buds over the past 2 years:

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Cơm Tấm (Broken Rice)

This is my go-to lunch option, although the locals actually tend to eat it for breakfast. The broken rice is generally served with a BBQ’d pork chop and an optional egg. I tend to forgo the egg (despite the misleading photo). It’s usually served with an assortment of boiled vegetables and a small bag of fish sauce, which is delicious on the proviso you ignore what it’s made from and instead trick yourself into believing it’s just sweet chilli sauce. This particular cơm tấm came with some diced pork crackling sprinkled on top.

Price: 25,000vnd (£0.74)

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Bánh Cay (spicy cakes)

These little tykes have led to the demise of my ‘diet’ since a lovely local lady set up shop just outside my school. Now, a day rarely goes by where I don’t pick up a small bag. They taste just like Aunt Bessie’s roast potatoes, with the addition of a generous sprinkling of chilli. They’re deep-fried dough balls and are quite frankly heaven-on-earth. MUST be accompanied with a glass of water though!

Price: 5,000 vnd (£0.15)

20131004_004116Mì Xào Bò (Beef Noodles)

This is a bit of a ‘cheat’ street food. The base consists of a serving of plain instant noodles tossed with morning glory. Shreds of beef are then sprinkled on top. It’s all served with a small bag of soy sauce (which I give or take depending on my mood). This is a late night snack option, with the convenience of a 24/7 vendor just outside my apartment block.

Price: 22,000vnd (£0.65)

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Bánh Mì Gà Nướng (Chicken Baked Bread)

OK, this isn’t strictly a Vietnamese dish, but it is still purchased from a street vendor. This is a glorified chicken kebab, served on toasted pita and accompanied with salad and the BEST garlic mayonnaise I’ve ever tasted. This is definitely the guilty pleasure.

Price: 25,000vnd (£0.74)

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Gỏi Cuốn (Fresh Spring Rolls)

I know this photo doesn’t look like street food, but it didn’t look quite as presentable sprawled inside a plastic bag. Fresh spring rolls are a travellers favourite in Vietnam; they make a great DIY experience. They usually consist of a couple of prawns, some processed pork slices and a whole smattering of leafy bits (coriander, mint etc). They can be served with a variety of dipping sauces, but my favourite is definitely the one photographed; a satay sauce with peanuts.

Price: 15,000vnd (£0.44)

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Bánh Mì (Bread)

Who can forget the reliable bánh mì? Not the greatest of photos, but the dish speaks for itself. A Vietnamese sandwich served on a warm baguette.  The filling can be questionable at times, some vendors enjoy adding a bit of pig brains into the mix. Therefore, I’ve learnt to visit the vendors who allow you to choose your own filling. Chicken, pork, paté and salad is a firm favourite. Although you can’t go wrong with the simple cream cheese and cucumber ones they also offer.

Price: 12,000vnd (£0.35)

IMG_2570Phở (Noodle Soup)

No Vietnamese street food list would be complete without the infamous phở. Honestly, it’s not my favourite of the local dishes, and I often end up just slurping the broth and leaving the rest. Regardless, it’s still the country’s national dish. Phở comes with a variety of meats, depending on your vendor. This particular bowl was purchased at Ben Thanh Market and included just beef. Other local soup dishes include: Bún Bò Huế and Hủ Tiếu (all much of a muchness if I’m honest).

Price: 15,000vnd (£0.44)

DSC07117Xôi Mặn (Salty Sticky Rice) *Dodgy translation*

I’d be lying if I said these next two dishes were a firm favourite. I’ve eaten xôi mặn once and while it was OK, it didn’t really blow me away. The dish consists of a bed of sticky rice mixed with a creamy mayonnaise-like sauce, topped with a spoonful of paté and slices of processed beef. Like the cơm tấm, a sprinkling of pork crackling shavings garnished the meal.

Price: 13,000vnd (£0.38)

20131002_071338Bánh Cuốn (Rice Paper Rolls)

Another one timer, but very delicious nonetheless. These are rice paper rolls stuffed with mushrooms and beef. They have a similar consistency as the fresh spring rolls but are served with rice noodles and additional meat slices. As usual, plenty of herbs decorate the dish.

Price: 25,000vnd (£0.74)

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Bún Thịt Nướng (Noodles with Grilled Meat)

Definitely a strong contender for the top spot. Noodles. BBQ’d pork. Fried Spring Rolls. What’s not to like?! This is another dish that’s accompanied with the wonderful fish sauce. But don’t let that put you off, it really is just so delicious. (*EDIT* Thanks to one of my Reddit readers for pointing out that I’d missed this little gem)

Price: 22,000vnd (£0.65)

Obviously, this isn’t a definitive list and I’d love to hear from anyone who has any other favourites that they feel should be added to the list!

Bitter-Sweet Goodbye

One of the perks of my job is that, every 9 weeks, I get a week off. Seriously loving life. You know you’re jealous really.

Each English language course at CEFALT lasts just 9 weeks.  Following this, there’s an admin week where all the exam results are collated and certificates awarded. Luckily, this has absolutely nothing to do with me so I get to run away. Yay! Usually, my week off is spent eating way too much, drinking way too much and sunbathing way too much – I expect this next week to be no different, especially as I have a friend visiting from the UK. Beyond excited!

My final class was on Saturday morning and saying goodbye to my students is always a bitter-sweet moment, especially with my 5-11 year olds. I usually grow strong attachments with all my kids quite quickly (the motherly instinct in me), so I can get a little emotional saying goodbye. Above all else though, it has usually taken me around 9 weeks just to get the little tyke’s cooperation and respect. I finally gain their trust just to shatter it all by saying goodbye. By this 9th week, the kids have also started to grow a little antsy; fed up of my games, my way of teaching and my form of punishments. I’ve gathered quite the reputation as a bit of a crazy teacher through my disciplinary methods, namely ‘The Naughty Corner’. This is when the accused is placed in the corner of the classroom, with their back to the class and their arms outstretched. Should they misbehave whilst in this position, they are then told to move their arms in continuous small circular motions. The rest of the class find it hilarious, that is, until they’ve been victim to it themselves, then you’ve never seen such empathy!

 

Speaks for itself doesn't it really?

Trouble.

 

một, hai, ba, cheese?

Một, Hai, Ba … Cheese?

Saying goodbye to my teenagers is usually a less dramatic affair – their last lesson comes after their final exam, so no one usually shows up anyway. I’m also quite strict with my teenagers, so I actually think they’re a little relieved when it’s all over (*sad face*). Last week caught me completely off guard though when two teenage students actually presented me with goodbye gifts.

Beautiful scarf

Beautiful scarf

Handmade bracelet (spelt correctly no less!)

Handmade bracelet (spelt correctly no less!)

It’s times like this that remind me why I’m out here; so far from home yet so at home. Bitter-sweet moments.